About Eriostemma.

Eriostemma are a passion project for me. It began when I stumbled upon Lauterbachii by chance and I haven’t looked back. They are considered terrestrial rather than an Epiphytic growers.  They originate on the ground and though great growth and especially sturdy, fleshy vines, they climb and ramble through the trees in search of light. Rather than employing adventitious roots, Eriostemma rely on size and strength to reach new heights in the wild. There are several differentiating factors that separate Eriostemma from Hoya in their traditionally recognizable form, yet they retain many classically Hoya characteristics. Information can be scarce, so I’m still unsure if they have been classified as their own genus or if they’re considered a section of the Hoya genus. Regarding the differences between Eriostemma and Hoya, there are plenty worth mentioning. Eriostemma grow on robust, fuzzy vines that are thick and fibrous. The leaves of most Eriostemma are fuzzy too, though the fuzz quotient varies by plant. Some like Ciliata have a rougher texture, while Lauterbachii is soft. Coronaria has a fine fuzz, and Ruthie is completely devoid of any fuss at all. The flowers still typically present in clusters, but the numbers per umbel can be less than in typical Hoya. Like most things about Eriostemma, though, the flowers are large and even more waxy in appearance than your everyday Hoya, believe it or not. Many of the Eriostemma look almost exactly alike when they aren’t in bloom. The leaves are of similar shapes, sizes and fuzz factors. From a visual standpoint, the Eriostemma are far less varied. You’d believe the relationship between Ciliata and Lauterbachii, whereas you might raise an eyebrow when seeing Hoya Linearis next to Hoya Carnosa Compacta. They have a different set of nutritional requirements as well. As terrestrial growers, Eriostemma require crushed oyster shell or Lime to meet their nutritional needs. In their natural habitats, the uppermost layers of soil overlie a layer of limestone bedrock that adds mineral content to the soil. You can also learn more about this here under the crushed oyster shell section. Eriostemma enjoy SUN. There are some exceptions like Coronaria who prefer moderate levels of sun, but overwhelmingly Eriostemma would like to be in your warmest, brightest location and humidity would be appreciated. With that being said, they aren’t known as the most stellar houseplants. This isn’t just because they want a hot jungle in which to reside. They are also known for getting big, like several feet of thick, heavy fines big. What they are not known for is blooming as houseplants. Eriostemma are a little unruly, a little high maintenance and very rewarding. Perhaps that’s why I like them. 

Below you’ll find many Eriostemma that I’m currently growing on my Eriostemma shelf in a south facing window. I have seven more plants in the process of rooting through various methods. Check here for information and updates on my experiment with rooting Eriostemma cuttings from rare-hoyas.com.

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Coronaria.

This terrestrial grower is originally found in the lowland mangrove swamps of Malaysia according to tropical.theferns.info. I was able to find some great information there about this plant, especially regarding its need for humidity. Humidity isn’t something I hear often when researching Eriostemma, perhaps because so many growers keep them outdoors where it’s left to Mother Nature. This plant is often shown with flowers in pink, white, magenta or peach, although there is some question whether these are actually different plants or if different conditions and levels of light produce different colors in the flower. The flowers of any color can be spotted. Coronaria is said to be a slower growing Eriostemma, but this hasn’t been my experience. In a south window, it has developed a new vine and growth on the main vine has been fast. It loves to coil and twist, which isn’t the tendency of all Eriostemma that I grow. Cononaria needs to be shielded from direct sunlight. It would do better in bright indirect light and prefers to be kept warm. Several of my Epiphytic Hoya LOVE a drafty east or west windows in the winter months. This is not the case with Coronaria or any other Eriostemma in my experience. Though the epiphytic Hoya thrive in that condition, it would be detrimental with Coronaria. The goal would be to maintain consistent temperatures year round.

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Lauterbachii.

This was my first Eriostemma and it inspired my love for the group as a whole. It has densely fuzzy leaves on sturdy vines. I know it’ll take ages for this plant to reach maturity, but I was so drawn to the unique vine, the interesting texture of the leaves, and the endearing fuzz that covers leaf and vine of Lauterbachii. Hailing from Eastern Papua New Guinea, this plant can produce bundles of flowers that span 8 inches across with individual flowers up to 3 inches wide. It’s not known for flowering indoors. Regardless, these flowers are the largest found in the species. The vines are more sturdy than some other Eriostemma and they show less tendency to vine and climb. Coronaria, for example, reaches over to the trellises of other Eriostemma and coils around them. Lauterbachii maintains a heavy and rigid vine, so far at least. Some of the early advice I received on this plant was that it loves sun and it likes to dry out between watering. I have found this advice to be true, and my plant has grown by following that formula. The growth rate in the summer months is medium, with little growth happening in the cool months.

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Monette


Coronaria X Lauterbachii

This tiny Monette is an Ed Gilding hybrid. I purchased it because it’s the same cross as another of Ed Gilding’s hybrids, Margaret, which is a plant I covet. I hope to one day locate Margaret, but in the mean time, I’m happy to have Monette. Due to the Lauterbachii parentage, this plant develops large flowers. I don’t necessarily expect to see them as an indoor grower, but know that it has the capability of some very Lauterbachii-esque flowers under the right conditions. Monette likes full sun, and my experience has been that it likes water, too. Not quite as much as Ruthie, but close. It seems happy with the arrangement it has in my South window. This plant likes to vine and twist like its parent Coronaria. It doesn’t have the rigidity of Lauterbachii.

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Unknown!

I purchased this unknown Eriostemma because I love a mystery. The seller was able to provide photos of the mother plant that looks a lot like a Coronaria with reddish burgundy star shaped flowers, but couldn’t say conclusively that the plant has an ID. The leaves are much smaller than my Coronaria, though the shape is similar and they have a very light fuzz. Where it differs from Coronaria is in its rate of growth. This one grows FAST. I went away for a couple of days and when I returned, it had two new leaves. I’m happy to keep this plant and watch it grow, though I know I might not ever know who it truly is.

Update: Now that I’ve had a chance to see new leaves, vines, fuzz and on this plant and Coronaria as well as all of my other Eriostemma, my guess is that this plant too is Coronaria.

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Ruthie


MM X Ariadna

This hybrid is completely devoid of any fuzz on the leaves or vine. The leaves have a smooth, almost leathery feel. They’re thick, and though they appear as though they can hold quite a bit of water for the plant, Ruthie likes more water than the average Eriostemma. I have found that I can’t rely on the wrinkling of the leaves as an indicator that Ruthie needs water. The thick leathery leaves don’t wrinkle or soften as readily, and therefore I try to be extra careful to give Ruthie enough water. One of the two plants lost a growing tip in shipping, but the other is still growing strong, and the plant grows steadily. She may be small, but she was even smaller when I got her. Ruthie seems to take well to the light of the South-facing window, so I can tell she’ll be soaking up a lot of light and water as she matures.

I suggest rooting Ruthie cuttings in soil. After my experiment with cuttings from rare-hoyas.com, I wouldn’t hesitate to root in soil over water or gel beads.

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Ciliata

“Black Hoya”

Ciliata gets the name “Black Hoya” from the dark purple, almost black star shaped flowers it (hopefully) produces. A native to the Southern Philippines, Ciliata has fuzzy leaves and loves warmth. When grown indoors, this Eriostemma would prefer bright indirect light, no direct sunlight. I still grow this plant in my South window, but it’s out of the reach of direct sunlight. The leaves wrinkle when the plant needs water, and due to the pot and soil choices I’ve made, it ends up needing water more than I originally expected. It’s really helpful when the plant can show that it needs water. It takes a lot of the pressure away from the fear of overwatering. Ciliata and Lauterbachii are the easiest to read when they need water. It could be coincidental, but they’re also the two fuzziest Eriostemma that I have. Something about the texture of the leaves makes it very apparent that they’ve wrinkled and almost deflated when it’s time for watering.

Ciliata might be the fastest growing Eriostemma I have. I can almost see the growth happening. As far as Eriostemma go, this one is totally accepting of household conditions.

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Ariadna

Ariadna has adjusted well to my indoor environment. Though it did suffer in shipping, I’ve since found it to be a sturdy plant. This was the hardest Eriostemma to locate, so if you see one, get it. My plant is the first and only Ariadna that I was able to find at all. Native to Indonesia and the Solomon Islands, this plant is not as fuzzy as other Eriostemma. It seems to be a rapid grower and although the growing point of the stem was fractured, it’s continued to grow at a 90 degree angle, half attached to the rest of the plant. The leaves on this plant aren’t as uniformly shaped as Lauterbachii or Ciliata, but they still have the look of an Eriostemma. I’m looking forward to seeing how the plant matures.

Update: That broken tip just keeps on growing. It has several inches of growth and new leaves.

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Affinis

“Red Wax Plant”

The leaves on this plant are so fantastic. Some of the larger leaves give me something to look forward to as this plant matures. They are the largest leaves on any Eriostemma currently in my possession and they remind me of little turtle shells due to the texture and marking. They aren’t especially fuzzy, like Ariadna, and they also originate in the Solomon Islands. This Affinis is two plants that I’ve potted together. Affinis hasn’t been a fast grower in my care yet. I’m watching carefully to see if this plant tends to grow more slowly, or if I need to adjust my care.

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Guppyi

Photo coming soon.

This one has been a journey. Details coming soon.

In Conclusion…

Eriostemma, being terrestrial plants, appreciate a larger pot than might be standard for an epiphytic Hoya. I also prefer to keep them in terra-cotta, a natural clay material that breathes, in an attempt to duplicate the experience of growing in the ground as closely as possible. I have plants in all stages of transition, but the end goal for each plant is to grow large in a clay pot where it will eventually trellis or be allowed to hang with the option to climb as well. This isn’t a plant that will tolerate frequent relocation or temperature fluctuations. Consistency is the name of the game and I’ve often found that placing a new Eriostemma into its permanent home directly upon arrival is preferable to allowing it to stabilize for an introductory period in a “rehab” location. This is what has worked for me, but please let me know what has worked for you.